My own general conclusion: I don't love Spain, but it's a nice country, and if I were made to go back, I'd find ways to enjoy it. If someone handed me a ticket, I'd go. But when I come back to Europe someday, it won't be on my list of destinations. Lo siento, España.
And then it was time to bid Spain adios...one more tight, stressful Ryan Air flight from Madrid and we were in Italia!